
For seven years I was visiting Kashmir often during a project for research and setting up Dutch saffron bulb test sites and quarantine procedures. It was during these visits that I realized that this part of India, has some similarities to Europe in its biodiversity, due to the birch trees, daffodils, alpine flowers and pines. But as usual, saffron and food were my prime interests while being there, and it was an exciting time to discover Kashmiri ingredients and cuisine. What fascinated me is the use of flowers like cockscomb (mawaal) in the recipes. Also, the technique of cooking down yoghurt to a thick creamy mass, which is then used in the sauces.
A lot of restaurants in India and in EU have Rogan Josh on the menu. Each restaurant just cooks something up, looking red which does not do any justice to this iconic Wazwaan Kashmiri dish. Onions, tomatoes and food colours, or heavy on spices, restaurants have been irresponsible in representing a wrong Rogan Josh to India and the world, which is barely similar to the original Muslim or Pandit versions cooked in the valley. It nearly feels an insult to misrepresent such an elegant, delicately spiced, and flavourful recipe.
This is the Kashmiri Pandit version of Rogan Josh, vibrant in colour and flavour- laden with a subtle underlying hint of spiciness.
To make Rogan Josh you need good quality low fat, prime-cuts of mutton or lamb like shoulder and chops to taste perfect.
The secret ingredients: mawaal, cockscomb flower extract, Rattanjot- alkanet plant bark extract (either one), and of course, saffron! If Rattanjot or cockscomb is not available, use 3 Hibiscus sabdariffa flowers (hibiscus tea flowers) soaked in ½ cup hot water.
For 4 persons. 1 cup = 240 ml/ 1 tbsp = 15 ml/ 1 tsp = 5 ml.
1 kg mutton or lamb shoulder & /or chops cut in large cubes | |
2 tbsp mustard oil (Use rapeseed oil if unavailable) | |
3 tbsp ghee | |
2 black cardamoms - crushed | |
3 green cardamoms, whole | |
2 sticks of cinnamon- 4 cm long or Cassia bark | |
6 cloves | |
½ tsp asafoetida (Hing) | |
1 teaspoon fennel seed powder (powdered saunf) + ½ tsp for finishing | |
1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder or mix ½ kashmiri + ½ paprika powders. Soak in 2 tbsp water. + ½ tsp for finishing. Ideally, de-seed 5-6 Kashmiri chillies, break into pieces, soak in some hot water & cover. Grind it to paste, then mix with some water & sieve through to get a smooth semi-fluid paste. | |
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper | |
2 cups full fat yogurt / Greek style yoghurt | |
Any one of the following extracts: 3-4 pieces rattanjot (Alkanet), heated in 2 tbsp hot oil to get an extract/ or 6-8 Mawaal (dried cockscomb flower), cook in ¾ cup water then drain to get the extract, or 3 hibiscus flowers soaked in ½ cup hot water for 10 mins, then drain to get the extract. | |
½ tsp saffron, soaked in 2 tbsp hot water, keep the bowl covered while soaking. |
For seven years I was visiting Kashmir often during a project for research and setting up Dutch saffron bulb test sites and quarantine procedures. It was during these visits that I realized that this part of India, has some similarities to Europe in its biodiversity, due to the birch trees, daffodils, alpine flowers and pines....
1. | Rinse the mutton or lamb cubes in 1 litre boiling hot water. Drain completely. Discard water. |
2. | Heat oil and ghee in a heavy based pan on a medium flame. |
3. | Add all the whole spices and on medium heat fry until fragrant. Then add asafoetida. |
4. | Add the lamb or mutton pieces and cook on high heat to sear the meat. Using tongs remove the meat and set aside on a plate. Cover to keep warm. |
5. | To the yoghurt add the aniseed powder, red chilli paste and black pepper & whisk to mix. |
6. | Add to the pan, stir well and cook stirring on a medium flame until the yogurt splits, then comes together and releases its oil on the sides. |
7. | Return the meat to the yogurt mixture. Add a teaspoon of salt. Toss & stir to mix and simmer covered on a low flame until meat is tender. (50 – 60 mins) Add about 1 cup water a little at a time during the cooking process. Check frequently and do not let the gravy dry out. Rogan josh must have a little gravy. |
8. | When the meat is nearly done, add the colour extract from the mawaal / rattanjot/ hibiscus flower, whichever is your choice. Add the saffron extract too. |
9. | Taste. Adjust more Kashmiri chili/ paprika powder, ½ tsp of fennel powder to freshen up the taste and colour, and check salt, simmer for 3 minutes more |
10. | Serve warm with Basmati rice. |
Leave a Response