During my work in the organic sector, I had the opportunity to visit many tea, coffee & spice estates in South India. I cherished these visits as they were in the scenic, verdant mountainous areas of the Western Ghats. The visits felt like working-holidays, meeting earthy, down to earth people, who loved nature as much as I did. The intense shades of green, were a “forest bathing”. Nearly all coffee and tea estates also grow pepper, cassia-cinnamon, tejpatta (which is the leaf of the Cassia tree- Cinnamomum cassia) and cardamom, as complimentary crops. The tea or coffee plants need shade in high summer, hence trees planted in the estate support the pepper & vanilla vines. A symbiotic relationship.
On one such visit in Coorg, I had the opportunity to come across this recipe cooked at the coffee estate for our lunch. It really felt as I am consuming the very essence & soul of the estate. Bursting with flavour, it is one of few recipes from Coorg, that did not entail grinding masalas! It is a celebration of a spice we use nearly every day- Black pepper. For me, it was a celebration of the coffee estate, using three types of pepper & spices grown on the estate!
For 4- 1 tsp=5ml/ 1 tbsp=15ml /1 cup=225ml
500g chicken thighs (or 6 pieces)- skin removed, and small incisions made on both sides | |
½ tsp turmeric | |
2 ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper | |
Juice of a full lemon | |
½ tsp Salt- to taste | |
1 tsp green peppercorns (fresh, or in brine) – drained & slightly smashed | |
½ cup coconut milk- to thicken sauce / or more to blush if it is too spicy for you | |
About ½ tsp freshly ground white pepper + 1 long pepper (piper longum) powdered (optional, adds a lemony taste) | |
To prepare Pepper Bouillon: | |
4 tbsp good quality black peppercorns (Telicherry) | |
1 heaped tsp cumin | |
4 large cassia/cinnamon pieces (4 cm)- broken up | |
8 cloves | |
3 tejpatta- broken up into small pieces | |
3 shallot- topped, tailed & peeled- smashed with the heel of your hand or a pestle | |
6 cloves garlic- smashed with peel | |
1 ½ cups hot water | |
8 cardamoms- slightly crushed | |
6 sprigs of fresh coriander/ or fresh curry leaves | |
¼ tsp salt |
During my work in the organic sector, I had the opportunity to visit many tea, coffee & spice estates in South India. I cherished these visits as they were in the scenic, verdant mountainous areas of the Western Ghats. The visits felt like working-holidays, meeting earthy, down to earth people, who loved nature as much...
1. | In a small bowl, mix the turmeric, ground black pepper& salt. Rub the chicken thighs well all over & into the incisions with the mix. |
2. | Pour over the lemon juice & marinate if possible, for an hour. In the meantime prepare the bouillon as below. |
3. | In a saucepan, keep the hot water on a gentle boil. |
4. | Heat an iron pan or thick bottomed skillet, when hot, add the peppercorns. |
5. | On low heat, roast the peppercorns till they become a hot to the touch & aromatic. They might give off a hint of smoke- approx.2-3 mins. |
6. | Now add all other spices except the cardamoms, and a few drops of oil. |
7. | Roast for half a minute till the aromas are released. Add the roasted spices to the boiling water. |
8. | Add the smashed shallot + garlic to the pan roast while turning + pressing the shallot & garlic, to release some of its aroma, and they start to brown a bit. |
9. | Add a ladle or two of the boiling water to the pan, and pour it all back into the saucepan. |
10. | Add the reserved cardamoms, coriander sprigs 9curry leves) & ¼ tsp salt to the water. (the chicken has some salt already, so just little is needed to season the water) |
11. | On medium heat, boil with the pan covered for about 15-20 mins. |
12. | Strain the pepper bouillon into a bowl, cover & keep hot. Transfer the cooked garlic & shallots to a chopping board, chop fine or mash it with a fork, reserve to add to the sauce later. Discard the whole spices used in the bouillon. |
13. | Heat a wide pan with the coconut oil/ ghee. When the oil is hot, arrange the chicken thighs in the pan. |
14. | On medium heat, gently roast the chicken thighs on all sides to get a golden crust. |
15. | Add the strained pepper bouillon to the chicken. |
16. | Add the crushed green pepper & the garlic + shallots. |
17. | Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover & cook till the chicken thighs are just done. 25-30 mins. Pierce the thigh with a knife, if juice is clear it is done. |
18. | Add the coconut milk to the pan. Taste & adjust the salt and check the spiciness for you. Make it as spicy as you like or keep it mild. |
19. | Grind some freshly ground black pepper or if you have, one long-pepper powdered & added to the sauce for that extra burst of pepper to finish the dish! |
20. | Serve with rice or with flat or crusty breads to sop up the curry. ideal with Appams -recipe is in the Mains -Bread section. |