During my work in the organic sector, I had the opportunity to visit many tea, coffee & spice estates in South India. I cherished these visits as they were in the scenic, verdant mountainous areas of the Western Ghats. The visits felt like working-holidays, meeting earthy, down to earth people, who loved nature as much as I did. The intense shades of green, were a “forest bathing”. Nearly all coffee and tea estates also grow pepper, cassia-cinnamon, tejpatta (which is the leaf of the Cassia tree- Cinnamomum cassia) and cardamom, as complimentary crops. The tea or coffee plants need shade in high summer, hence trees planted in the estate support the pepper & vanilla vines. A symbiotic relationship.

On one such visit in Coorg, I had the opportunity to come across this recipe cooked at the coffee estate for our lunch. It really felt as I am consuming the very essence & soul of the estate. Bursting with flavour, it is one of few recipes from Coorg, that did not entail grinding masalas! It is a celebration of a spice we use nearly every day- Black pepper. For me, it was a celebration of the coffee estate, using three types of pepper & spices grown on the estate!

For 4- 1 tsp=5ml/ 1 tbsp=15ml /1 cup=225ml

Ingredients

500g chicken thighs (or 6 pieces)- skin removed, and small incisions made on both sides
½ tsp turmeric
2 ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
Juice of a full lemon
½ tsp Salt- to taste
1 tsp green peppercorns (fresh, or in brine) – drained & slightly smashed
½ cup coconut milk- to thicken sauce / or more to blush if it is too spicy for you
About ½ tsp freshly ground white pepper + 1 long pepper (piper longum) powdered (optional, adds a lemony taste)
To prepare Pepper Bouillon:
4 tbsp good quality black peppercorns (Telicherry)
1 heaped tsp cumin
4 large cassia/cinnamon pieces (4 cm)- broken up
8 cloves
3 tejpatta- broken up into small pieces
3 shallot- topped, tailed & peeled- smashed with the heel of your hand or a pestle
6 cloves garlic- smashed with peel
1 ½ cups hot water
8 cardamoms- slightly crushed
6 sprigs of fresh coriander/ or fresh curry leaves
¼ tsp salt
During my work in the organic sector, I had the opportunity to visit many tea, coffee & spice estates in South India. I cherished these visits as they were in the scenic, verdant mountainous areas of the Western Ghats. The visits felt like working-holidays, meeting earthy, down to earth people, who loved nature as much...

Instructions

1.In a small bowl, mix the turmeric, ground black pepper& salt. Rub the chicken thighs well all over & into the incisions with the mix.
2.Pour over the lemon juice & marinate if possible, for an hour. In the meantime prepare the bouillon as below.
3.In a saucepan, keep the hot water on a gentle boil.
4.Heat an iron pan or thick bottomed skillet, when hot, add the peppercorns.
5.On low heat, roast the peppercorns till they become a hot to the touch & aromatic. They might give off a hint of smoke- approx.2-3 mins.
6.Now add all other spices except the cardamoms, and a few drops of oil.
7.Roast for half a minute till the aromas are released. Add the roasted spices to the boiling water.
8.Add the smashed shallot + garlic to the pan roast while turning + pressing the shallot & garlic, to release some of its aroma, and they start to brown a bit.
9.Add a ladle or two of the boiling water to the pan, and pour it all back into the saucepan.
10.Add the reserved cardamoms, coriander sprigs 9curry leves) & ¼ tsp salt to the water. (the chicken has some salt already, so just little is needed to season the water)
11.On medium heat, boil with the pan covered for about 15-20 mins.
12.Strain the pepper bouillon into a bowl, cover & keep hot. Transfer the cooked garlic & shallots to a chopping board, chop fine or mash it with a fork, reserve to add to the sauce later. Discard the whole spices used in the bouillon.
13.Heat a wide pan with the coconut oil/ ghee. When the oil is hot, arrange the chicken thighs in the pan.
14.On medium heat, gently roast the chicken thighs on all sides to get a golden crust.
15.Add the strained pepper bouillon to the chicken.
16.Add the crushed green pepper & the garlic + shallots.
17.Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover & cook till the chicken thighs are just done. 25-30 mins. Pierce the thigh with a knife, if juice is clear it is done.
18.Add the coconut milk to the pan. Taste & adjust the salt and check the spiciness for you. Make it as spicy as you like or keep it mild.
19.Grind some freshly ground black pepper or if you have, one long-pepper powdered & added to the sauce for that extra burst of pepper to finish the dish!
20.Serve with rice or with flat or crusty breads to sop up the curry. ideal with Appams -recipe is in the Mains -Bread section.